Kurtuluş – Discover Istanbul’s Characteristic
Mehmet Keserli
Salvation: A Haven for Ethnic and Religious Minorities
Kurtuluş, formerly known as ‘Tatavla’ is famous for being an area where socially excluded ethnic minorities of Istanbul have historically resided and worked within their own respective communities. Formerly known as “Tatavla”, Kurtuluş became a haven for Istanbul’s excluded ethnic minorities – those who found acceptance in Kurtuluş and carved out a space for themselves and their communities. They may have been excluded, but they were not forgotten. Bonus fact: Kurtuluş literally translates to “salvation” in English. That’s a little bit of trivia that you might or might not use.
The areas of Bomonti, Feriköy and Kurtuluş were originally known for hosting the various Christian communities of Istanbul. Bomonti was mostly home for the Armenian orthodox community (and today some of their churches, schools and graveyards still exist). Tatavla (today’s Kurtuluş) and Feriköy on the other hand was almost purely habited by Greeks.
Here’s Kurtuluş on the map so you’ve got a rough idea before exploring:
The traditional communities that made a home for themselves in Kurtuluş are blending into 21st century Istanbul, becoming less distinct. Yet, traces of the old traditions and history are still alive in the streets, cafes, and especially in the faces of older Kurtuluş residents; living witnesses of Kurtuluş’ past.
Kurtuluş – An Origins Story
Whilst the ethnic minorities such as the Armenians and Greeks had a history of relatively peaceful and comfortable lives in the early Ottoman period, this changed in the late Ottoman era and early Turkish Republican era as political turmoil set in.
Kurtuluş really shone during the 20th century as it was full of productive non-Muslim communities, mostly dealing with artisanal crafts and creative pursuits, for example – the most famous composers and musicians of Ottoman Empire were Greek, while the most talented instrument producers and architects were Armenian.
Unfortunately, this creative paradise came to an end with the collapsing empire, the dreams of politicians in creating a nation-state benefitting the “loyals” (Turks); and the creation of division among society between those that were born and bred Turkish and those that were residing in the country but not from Turkish descent led to a very turbulent time in Turkish history.
Cultural Eclecticism Lives, Despite the Odds
The remaining Armenian community had all but left the country after1924, while the Greek community faced a mandatory migration back to Greece, in exchange of the mandatory migration of Turks living in Greece back to their homeland. Whilst most communities living in Istanbul itself were lucky enough to not face mandatory removal, many felt insecure and vulnerable as family members and others located in Turkey were leaving with haste and moved anyway.
Many years of unsettlement continued, but following the first few years of the formation of the Republicit was surprising that there was, in fact, a significant non-Muslim minority community back in the region, including both Armenian and Greeks. And, for the bustling Kurtuluş region it was not unheard of for little Turkish to be spoken on public transport – and the “official spoken language” on a tram, for example, to be mostly Greek.
It was however still a politically tense time, especially with the ‘Cypriot Crisis’ ongoing between Greece and Turkey. Sadly, a news article in a provocative newspaper was enough to manipulate and enrage people into committing some shameful acts and this led to 2 days of Pogrom in Istanbul, with attacks on the property of non-Muslim communities all around the city, especially in Taksim, Tarlabaşı and Kurtuluş. This was the final blow for most of the population living in the region, leading to another wave of migration.
Discover Yesterday’s Kurtuluş, Today
The few members of those communities that stayed on have continued to live in their old neighborhoods, taking care of each other and the cultural heritage of their forefathers. Today, one can easily see old Greek people chatting in the streets, taste the local Greek and Armenian “mezes”, get some pork meat from butcher (considering the fact that Turkey is mostly a Muslim country, having that opportunity is usually particular to some wealthy neighborhoods and places with the dominance of non-Muslim history), find some hidden Greek taverns to spend a night in, or visit a historic church.
As a matter of fact, even though many of the old residents left the neighborhood, the cosmopolitan vibe of Kurtuluş has remained intact and thriving. Kurtuluş’s empty residences were refilled with other minority communities over time. And today it is still a melting pot of ethnicity, sexuality and religion – playing host to groups such as Syrian Refugees, LGBT communities, old Greeks and Armenians, Kurdish people and those wishing to be part of the demographic of a colourful, lively and neighborhood. Its closeness to night life such as the Bomontiada (the old beer factory where you can spend a day and lose yourself in the cultural experience around the interconnected space of Bomontiada. Concerts, modern art forms of every kind to engage in and appreciate) and Taksim Square has not passed the attention of university students and expats in Istanbul either, making it also quite a fashionable place to live for the young.
“I lived in Kurtuluş for several years and if you want to feel the real vibe of Istanbul this is the place to be.”
– Deniz Yetimalar
When in Bomontiada, be sure to check out Babylon for a splash of vibrancy. With Babylon’s attempt to move from Beyoğlu to Bomonti, Istanbul’s most important concert venue has helped to transform the city’s music scene. Bomontiada has become a haven of entertainment and culture. In the old brewery complex there are different cool restaurants, bars and cafes with the world-renowned Leice Gallery, and recently renowned photograher Ara Güler museum in addition to Babylon.
A Taste of History, a Sip of Culture
That eclectic feel of Kurtuluş is enhanced by fine dining options, like Batard, where high-end French cuisine has gained a reputation in the neighbourhood as the trendiest spot to eat. Batard has a rich and assorted menu, with delicious cocktails and French influenced desserts. It is a perfect place to stop by if you are in the neighborhood on a Sunday after the Antique Bazaar!
Alternatively, go local and opt for gourmet Anatolian delicacies presented with contemporary sensibilities at Delimonti – stone oven baked bread is not to pass up on.
A caffeine pit-stop during a day of exploring is the wise choice – Ministry of Coffee is a specialist coffee shop that’s got your perfect brew in one of the largest cafes in the area. If you’re planning to add depth and body to your coffee experience, they also offer a home barista workshop and accredited SCA classes.
If you feel like discovering Istanbul’s magnificently complicated social structure, demographics and history, Kurtuluş is a great place to take in the atmosphere, walk the streets, chat with the locals to get a first-hand experience, and above all, start learning about this gloriously vibrant area.
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